Today´s travel began on the motorcycle at the windy lake beach, and ended half a country away on a candlelit terrace drinking white wine and lemon daiquiris. We´ve come back to Leon, to sink into this city we´ve become so fond of, and really get to know it. Tomorrow morning I´m going out to a cooking class given by a local woman in her house, traditional wood-fired oven and all. Bob may deal with laundry, (which usually just means sending it out) but will also be able to hang out in the swimming pool here at the hostel all morning if he wants. We´re due for a restful day or two, after the intense volcano hike and the marathon travel day.

We´re so glad for the chance to be here, and Nicaragua is soaking in through all our pores, the dusty roads and smoke, the cows and buses and murals and music, the lush green banana trees, the volcanoes always at the horizon.